Questions and Answers About Dogs from Dog Lovers

Questions and Answers About Dogs from Dog Lovers: This page discusses dog advice at all levels. We are curating an extensive collection of daily, frequent, or unusual questions where dog lovers share and answer each other’s queries.

Most questions come from users in various groups or forums we frequent, so these answers should be considered as points of reference only.

The information provided on our blog is general and for illustrative purposes only. It cannot replace the advice of a veterinarian, a doctor, or other health professionals (such as psychologists, nutritionists, etc.).

The content shared here is educational and should not be considered professional advice.
No authors or contributors who create this blog can be held responsible for the results or consequences of using any published information.

Nothing published here should be construed as a substitute for professional advice or consultation with a physician, veterinary surgeon, or another qualified health professional.

Some Useful Tips...

Help topics and general questions about dogs asked by online users are collected here at Frenchie Breed.

Please note: The Frenchie Breed does not replace your doctor or veterinarian. Still, we want to help you improve your dog’s world.

FOOD

The real question is: why make the dog eat raw frankfurters? While Listeriosis doesn’t always cause severe forms, there are risks. Check out these helpful articles:

When switching to cold-pressed kibble, puppies may experience vomiting or increased thirst. Ensure gradual transitions and consult your vet if the issue persists. It is only recommended that food like this be changed gradually and frequently. Thirst is normal; kibble is dry and needs water first to be digested.

To make them less heavy, you can soak them with a bit of water before giving them so they start to break down, making them more digestible. The advice is to learn to read labels, which is very important! Here, for example, a helpful article:

Solutions:

1. Have you tried raw? The dog goes bonkers for it.
2. Stop giving it to him; he may miss a meal or two but will eat if hungry. I had a similar issue, and they wouldn’t eat without chicken. So now I give them pilchards/mackerel in tomato sauce now and again. It’s much cheaper and good for them. I know tomatoes are not suitable for them, but the sauce in the mackerel is good for them; the vet told me that because it’s not raw.
3. Mine is the same. She has had pets like Live Fresh, ButternutboxHilife, Cesar, and all the brands you can think of. She only eats chicken. So, I give her Iceland-cooked chicken chunks in the morning, and she has encored chicken in the tins at night. I’ve been having this for two years, so hopefully, I’ve cracked it.
4. If they turn their nose up at several dry foods, it’s time “to listen to your dog.” I don’t believe kibbles are food, and dogs are intelligent animals, and I think they eventually realise this. So, my suggestion would be to switch to fresh foods.
5. One of mine can be fussy, so I tried him with these HILIFE it’s only natural – Wet Dog Food – The Luxury Jelly Collection – Chicken Breast, Beef, Carrots, Peas – 100% Natural Grain Free, 15 Pouches x 100g. Also, Wainwright’s in pets at home do toppers, which are chicken-based but cheaper than buying & cooking fresh chicken… Sometimes, I grate cheese over it as well. I also vary their food now. Lily’s Kitchen & Forthglade are the favourites for wet, and I just swapped the Wainwrights veggie option in dry, but as they get older, they are becoming more of a struggle with food( 8& 7 now)… So, failing that, I cook Richmond sausages; they let me have a couple, and I add small amounts to their food … I also dampen the dried food to get a bit of a ‘gravy’.
6. I can highly recommend the butternut box. They often have deals, too.
7. Another vote for the butternut box is recommended!

The regurgitation or vomiting can undoubtedly be due to prolonged fasting (if he eats his second meal in the afternoon) and poor digestion.

Its association with diarrhoea may be linked to food intolerance, which more often than not manifests itself with gastrointestinal symptoms rather than just skin symptoms, as most people think.

A nutritionist could evaluate a hypoallergenic diet, perhaps even a fresh one, for a period to see if it improves.

With the symptoms he describes, it is crucial to investigate the dietary aspect. They do not have to be present daily, but the frequency you have indicated is already a sign of gastrointestinal discomfort.

We are responsible for the dog’s diet and fitness. Since dogs cannot regulate themselves, we must give the proper doses.

However, mixing wet, fresh, and dry can be done provided that we know how to do it through non-trivial calculations that assess the metabolisable energy needed by the dog to live a healthy life and given by the three different formulations.

So, given 100 of dry, it is not as if it is enough to do half and half (between dry and wet or fresh).
Under these circumstances, the most significant risk is giving excessive doses, which can lead to imbalances in the long term.

It is, therefore, impossible to give you an answer in one post. It would be best if you had nutritional counselling, which, once done, can provide you with guidelines for a balanced diet.

It is a small investment that I recommend you make to save a lot of money later… in treatment to restore the right balance. Many nutritionists also do this counselling online.

I also recommend that you read about the ‘dog food category’ on our website and, in particular, read this article: How Much Should I Feed My Dog?

1. Add slowly; Royal Canin doesn’t have a good write-up if you google dog foods, though, in case you weren’t aware.

2. At four months, we started with Wainwrights Wet and Kibble. We then moved to Raw and have never looked back. Asda Hero is not a good food to use.

3. I wouldn’t ever touch Royal Canin, Ava, or any other dry dog food. You want what your dogs eat to be as fresh as possible.

4. What kind of breeder feeds pups with Asda dog food? The site All About Dog Food has lots of information on food and nutritional value; you will see RC is junk. Transfer slowly over 5-7 days so the tummy doesn’t become upset. If your other furbaby is on Ava, maybe try that. He’s a darling, by the way.

HOW TO TRANSITION TO RAW
There are a few ways to transition your dog to raw, and no one suits all dogs. How you transition your dog should depend on each dog, considering the age and sensitivity of your dog.

STRAIGHT SWAP
This works well for most dogs, especially puppies and dogs that don’t have a sensitive tummy.
To do a straight swap, feed the current food one day and change to the raw diet the next.

SLOW TRANSITION
This works well for dogs with sensitive tummies and older dogs. Depending on your dog's sensitivity, you can do this over a few days or weeks, but typically, over a week works well. Replace a portion of the current food from the bowl with raw food, increasing the amount of raw food you add to the bowl until you have fully transitioned to raw.

FRESH FOOD SWAP
Another way to do it is if you have a susceptible dog, start adding some lightly cooked foods to the dog’s food for a little while before you transition to raw; the more lightly cooked foods your dog has and gets used to, the more you can slowly start introducing raw to that until eventually, they are all raw.

WHAT PROTEIN TO START WITH
When starting raw feeding, I always recommend using a good quality pre-made mince; this way, everyone is done for you, and as you become more knowledgeable, you can add more DIY raw to the bowl should you wish. Usually, I’d start with a slice of light meat like turkey or chicken if you know your dog is OK with these; if not, choose something you know your dog is OK with; go for a mince that does not have a high bone content ideally 10% for sensitive dogs it might be a good idea to feed an offal free mince first.

While transitioning, I recommend feeding the same protein for a week; if OK, add the subsequent protein again until you have tried all the different proteins. If something doesn’t suit, it’s straightforward to pinpoint what it is. Ideally, feeding single proteins is extremely important for dogs with any food intolerances and allergies when transitioning to feeding single protein minces. I recommend waiting a month before feeding whole bones to give the guy time to adjust to raw food.

While transitioning, If your dog has had a tummy upset for more than a day or so, don’t just give up and assume that raw doesn’t suit your dog; it may be that your dog needs a slower transition or some lightly cooked foods for a while or maybe the protein didn’t fit, often, in the beginning, it can be trial and error.

Useful links for raw dog food:
• https://www.purepetfood.com/
• https://www.greensforhealthypets.co.uk/…/single-proteins/
• https://www.stefspetpantry.com/…/raw-working…/by-brand/
• https://trustypetsupplies.co.uk/…/dog-food/raw-dog-food/

• Buy a small packet if the kibble you ordered online is also sold in pet shops.
• For a few days, cook potatoes, vegetables, and the meat the vet tells you to cook for him.
• Cook some homemade, and you’ll see how he eats. Chicken and turkey are more than satisfactory—Basmati rice. You can add a potato, a carrot, or both, mind you, without salt!

• My dog went right off raw; I had to hand-feed him, but then he refused point blank. So I now feed him Nature’s Variety dry food alongside their wet food and freeze-dried raw. He also gets Butcher’s grain-free tripe, Fresh Pet, which I buy from the local Tesco, and Pets Love Fresh. I also add some cooked chicken, boiled egg, and sardines.

• Have you tried Poppy’s picnic? They have a range that can be lightly cooked; maybe he would be tempted by its warm and pungent smell.
I would get him checked by a vet, though; when one of my dogs ate less, she needed some teeth removed. But, of course, now she’s back to her old self.

Hey all, I have recently had such a good experience with the following foods that I wanted to share.

☑ I’ve changed my pup food onto Scrumbles salmon kibble. My pup has thrived on this – no itching, no gas, perfect poos, brilliant coat and no tear stains! A 2kg bag is on offer for £10 in Sainsbury. It checks out with a 78% AADF rating.

☑ The other is Marlybones. This is similar to the butternut box but is shelf-stable, so there is no need to freeze/defrost. AADF rating of 95%
I combine both as I want my pup to have the crunch of biscuits and the health benefits of good food.

☑ The following product to rave about is the lick mat UFO bowl! This sticks to the side of surfaces, and I use her kibble (rehydrated) to push into the mat and place it at her height. I will freeze this overnight in the summer for extra extraordinary enrichment.

There are many good brands on the market, but not necessarily the most popular ones are better than others, and what is good for one dog may not be ideal for another.

It is always important to check the list of ingredients and the analytical values given (protein, fat, fibre and ash) and choose according to your animal’s needs.

Here are some tips from other users that may come in handy:

  • RegReggie’sw, Sutcliffe, and Bulmers are all OK and more budget-friendly.
  • If your pup can tolerate eggs, oily fish, fruit, vegetables, herbs, seeds, and nuts, you can add these on top to offer even more nutrients.
  • Prime Raw is another decently cheap brand.
  • Staffordshire Raw. £1.50-£1.95 for 1lb for 80-10-10 single proteins and others.
  • We use Southcliffe. I have never had any problems with it, and it’s cheaper.
  • I recently bought from Dogs Choice Raw Food—Doncaster, and my three love it. It is also cheaper than I’ve found elsewhere!
  • I started using a Butternut box. My dog seems to love it but is still looking at cheaper options containing all the food he needs.
  • We use Durham; if you order directly from them, it’s cheaper. And free delivery over £50.00
  • Do you do pre-made or DIY?DIY is far more cost-effective. Shop smart, and there are tremendous cost savings. I am in Canada. Feeding my 92-lb Rottie costs me about $120.00 monthly. It would cost less than that if I left out Turkey and duck as protein options, which are costly here. So, what seems to be your cost issue? What is your cost per month currently? What country are you located in?
  • Depending on where you are, check local suppliers and see if you can pick them up. Many suppliers do bulk boxes, too, which saves a bit more. My dog cannot tolerate chunky or thigh bones, either. We use mostly Dougies with a bit of The Dogs Butcher Puppy and their minced rabbit, Naked Dog/Naturaw occasionally, but they’re expensive; BetBetsy’sw range: Oh Deer & That Bleating Bird.
  • I also DIY with Dougies straight minces and other boneless/refuse, which might allow you to add more variety depending on what you can get. We also don’t eat beef but have started using minimal chicken. However, be careful with some brands, especially Bulmer, as they use beef offal in most of their minces.

I suggest feeding a puppy raw or finely minced raw for the first few months, as some brands can have more prominent pieces of bone, which could cause blockages or a choking hazard. I’ll provide some more info below.

Transitioning a Puppy to Raw
Look at some brands below. We recommend feeding an excellent pre-made puppy raw mince, as the bone is a finer grind, especially for Brachycephalic breeds and tiny puppies.

British Brands for Puppies:

  • ⊙ Bella & Duke
  • The Rawgeous Pet Food Co
  • Poppys picnic
  • Cotswold Raw
  • Naturaw
  • Hug
  • Natural Instinct
  • Luna & Me
  • Benyfit Natural
  • Dougies
Once you have chosen the right brand for your pup, you’ll have to work out how much your dog will need, depending on its age and current weight. I’ll have an excellent raw feeding calculator.

Feeding A Puppy
As a good rule of thumb, enter the percentages below when calculating how much to feed your puppy.
2-4 months 10-8%
4-6 months 8-6%
6-8 months 6-4%
8-12 months 4-3%
Adult 2.5%
I’ll also share our complete transition to the essential guide below.

How To Transition To Raw
There are a few ways to transition your dog to raw, and no one suits all dogs. How you transition your dog should depend on each dog, considering the age and sensitivity of your dog.

STRAIGHT SWAP
This works well for most dogs, especially puppies and dogs without sensitive tummies. To do a straight swap, feed the current food one day and change to the raw diet the next.

SLOW TRANSITION
This works well for dogs with sensitive tummies and older dogs. Depending on your dog's sensitivity, you can do this over a few days or weeks, but generally, over a week works well. Take a portion of the current food from the bowl and replace it with raw food, increasing the amount you add to the bowl until you have fully transitioned to raw.

FRESH FOOD SWAP
another way to do it if you have a compassionate dog is to start adding some lightly cooked foods to the dog’s for a little while before you transition to raw; the more lightly cooked foods your dog has and gets used to, the more you can then slowly start introducing raw to that till eventually they are having all raw.

WHAT PROTEIN TO START WITH
When starting raw feeding, I recommend using a good quality pre-made mince. This way, everyone is done for you; you can add more DIY raw to the bowl as you become more knowledgeable. Usually, I’d start with a slice of light meat like turkey or chicken if you know your dog is OK with these; if not, choose something you know your dog is OK with; go for a mince that does not have a high bone content ideally 10% for sensitive dogs it might be a good idea to feed an offal free mince first. While transitioning, I usually recommend feeding the same protein for a week; if OK, add the following protein again until you have tried all the different proteins. This way, if something doesn’t suit, it’s easy to pinpoint it.

Ideally, feeding single proteins is extremely important for dogs with any food intolerances and allergies when transitioning to feeding single protein minces. I recommend waiting a month before feeding whole bones to give the guy time to adjust to raw food.

While transitioning, If your dog has had a tummy upset for over a day, don’t just give up and assume that raw doesn’t suit your dog. It may be that your dog needs a slower transition or some lightly cooked foods for a while, or maybe the protein didn’t suit; often, in the beginning, it can be trial and error.

★ Raw Puppy Food Complete Meals | Premium

In general, yes!

Safe plant matter
The glycemic index measures how fast a carbohydrate-containing food can raise blood sugar levels. Ideally, stick to foods with a low to medium GL index and use high GL index foods sparingly.
If your dog is itchy, avoid high-GL foods and high-histamine foods; if you have a dog without issues, histamine in food should not cause any problems and is acceptable to be fed.

VEGGIES

  • Broccoli
  • Green beans
  • Cucumber
  • Cauliflower
  • Sprouts
  • Courgette
  • Asparagus
  • Kale
  • Cavolo nero
  • Spinach
  • Green cabbage
  • Mushrooms
  • Peppers
  • Carrots
  • Parsnips
  • Sweet potato
  • Butternut squash
  • Pumpkin
FRUITS
  • Blueberries
  • Blackberries
  • Raspberries
  • Cranberries
  • Strawberries
  • Apples
  • Pear
  • Banana
  • Watermelon
  • Pomegranate
  • Avocados (only a tiny amount of flesh) NO skin or pip
HERBS and other add-ins
  • Basil
  • Coriander
  • Fennel
  • Parsley
  • Mint
  • Tarragon
  • Thyme
  • Oregano
  • Rosemary (not if your dog has seizures)
  • Dandelion leaves
  • Ginger
  • Garlic
  • Turmeric
  • Goat milk/yoghurt
  • Kefir
  • Apple cider vinegar
  • Fermented veggies
  • Bone broth
The general advice to always talk to your veterinarian remains valid.

Goat’s kefir or natural Greek yoghurt is fine if your dog has no problems with dairy products. It is hard to say; you can try some because what one dog tolerates and another will not, but any fermented food should be tried with caution, especially if your dog is itchy.
Yoghurt also cannot be used as a substitute for calcium because it does not provide enough of it. Powdered eggshell is a good source of calcium that can be utilised. Just mix it with your dog’s food.

Yes, dogs can eat cucumbers. Has your dog tried a nature hydrating treat? Cucumbers are beneficial not just for humans but for dogs, too! This crunchy, low-calorie treat is great for helping your pup stay hydrated and is packed with antioxidants and vitamins such as Vitamin K – which helps strengthen your dog’s bones. PLUS! It can help freshen your breath, too.

✅ Freshens breath
✅ Low in calories
✅ Provides electrolytes
✅ Vitamin K
✅ Anti-inflammatory properties
✅ Provides antioxidants

​Feed as a crunchy treat, add some slices to your dinner or freeze for a cool-down treat!

Cucumbers can be a healthy and nutritious snack for dogs. Rich in fibre and antioxidants, cucumbers are a source of vitamins C and K as well as minerals and electrolytes such as magnesium and potassium. According to the specialist website Wamiz, cucumber is low in calories and therefore suitable for overweight dogs.

Of course, it is not just a question of weight. Rather than considering a fresh substitute, I recommend keeping tins of wet food in the house at all times, which have an extended expiry date and could be used if needed (I do this by giving meat; if I can’t find it, I have a “parachute).
But he always finds kibble. If, on the other hand, he wants to switch to homemade, the solution is to have his diet formulated by a nutritionist.

You might be interested in these two articles:
✅ How Much Can Food Should I Feed My Dog Per Day?
✅ How do you create a feeding schedule for your dog?

There are a few dilemmas to this, and I say yes. Still, with reservations, i.e., as long as it is not a rule if it only serves to give more flavour, OK. Dry food has been formulated as a complete food, so supplementing it with wet food cannot be done haphazardly.
Everything must be calculated and calibrated to avoid almost certain overweight in the long run.

For doses, you should consult a vet nutritionist.
As further advice, I also told her to hydrate the croquettes, wet them, and make them into a gruel (she will see how much they swell) to make them more digestible.
There is no dogma in science; usually, at least, everything is debatable and elastic.

Cooking for someone you love is rewarding; cooking for someone who will always appreciate the effort, like your dog, is even more so!

If you want tips on making homemade dog biscuits, I leave you with two straightforward recipes.

Homemade Snacks for the Dog
You will need or want to give your dog a small treat during the day. I want to remind you that snacks should be continuously monitored to avoid making him Overweight.
Preparing them at home is a good idea, and you can indulge yourself.
Biscuits are convenient because they can be prepared quickly and stored easily.

1) Dog Biscuits With Tuna
160 g natural tuna
100 g flour
One egg
One tablespoon seed oil
Bake at 180° for 15-20 minutes

2) Turkey dog biscuits
100 g turkey mince
100 g flour
One egg
One tablespoon seed oil

How long do homemade dog biscuits keep?
They will stay in tightly sealed glass jars for up to 15 days.

I’m not talking about ham; I’m talking about diet for our dogs. The comparison is between commercial nutrition and crude diet barf.
It is often said that a natural diet, barf, adheres to the dog’s nutritional needs.

But what do the studies say?
I found one very interesting. In summary, although there are differences in the gut microbiome between animals fed raw food and those fed conventional food (whereby traditional means commercial food), the available data do not suggest a reduction in diarrhoea episodes in raw-fed animals.

However, it is plausible that, for some individuals and specific diets, raw diets may lead to improvements in clinical signs related to food intolerances, intestinal inflammatory conditions and other conditions where dietary influences have been established.
Nothing was proved, however, regarding the benefits of behaviour, prevention of neoplasia, etc.

I have found great benefits from giving my dogs a barf diet.
Through it (correctly formulated, complete and microbiologically controlled), my dogs have:
✔ Drastically reduced the number of faeces produced 
✔ Flatulence zeroed (and it’s no small thing…)
✔ Otological problems eliminated (recurring otitis)
✔ Eliminated recurring itching problems
✔ Drastically reduced the production of tartar
✔ Improved appetite a lot.

They are even more robust and lively, with painted hair!
I wouldn’t change anymore and strongly advise everyone to think that their health depends on us.
Food is the first medicine.
 
For details about the studio, here is the link: 

You must assess several conditions to know how much your dog has to or should eat.
To find out, I will put an article that explains this (I understand that it would be much simpler to read the tables, but unfortunately, they are often unreliable).

You might be interested in this article:

  1. How much should I feed my dog?

Diabetes (I guess mellitus) needs strict diet management, administration timing and controls.
Snacks must be agreed upon with the nutritionist and the clinician.

Here’s an analogy to help you better understand the concept:

Imagine you’re a caveman living in the wild. You have to hunt for your food, and you can’t cook it because you don’t have any fire. So, you eat your meat raw, along with some fruits and vegetables that you find in the forest. This is similar to the BARF diet, which is based on the idea that dogs and cats should eat a diet similar to what their ancestors ate in the wild.

The BARF diet is believed to provide several benefits, such as healthier skin and coat, cleaner teeth, and fresher breath 1. However, it’s important to note that some risks are associated with this diet, such as bacterial contamination and nutritional imbalances. Therefore, it’s always a good idea to consult a veterinarian before starting your pet on the BARF diet.

I hope this analogy helps you better understand the BARF diet. If you have any more questions, feel free to ask!

My first advice is always to write down EVERYTHING your dog eats daily. It is easy to forget some treats and titbits. You should also weigh out the food you give him and compare this to the feeding guidelines on the packet. In many cases, owners overfeed, so reducing the treats and feeding the correct amount of food will lead to weight loss. You may need to look at weight-loss food if you are not feeding many treats and the correct amount of food.

There is some evidence that low-fat food may not be the best option for weight loss in dogs. It can lead to a dull coat and leave dogs hungry. Hungry dogs beg and scavenge, which ruins their diets! Choosing a weight-loss food with reduced calories but moderate fat and healthy protein levels can lead to more successful fat loss, less begging, and lean muscle retention.

There are healthier treats to choose from, such as freeze-dried chicken and liver or small pieces of dried fish skin, but remember that treats should make up no more than 10 per cent of your dog’s daily calorie intake. Unless you need a high-value treat for training, I advise keeping a small portion of your dog’s meal allowance to use as treats.

This is easiest if you use dried food, but some wet foods can be gently cooked to a firmer, more pocket-friendly texture. If your dog still struggles to lose weight, speak to your vet, as some health problems can cause weight gain.

HEALTH

Unfortunately, rickettsiosis is a tick-borne disease that can lead to various consequences in dogs, such as discomfort, pain, swollen paws and even lameness.
The vet will recommend a suitable therapy, which must be done over a long period with this disease. Combining supportive treatment to stimulate the immune system would also be advisable.

It could well be a flare-up of allergies. Change the type of food you give him. This should help your dog. Furthermore, some drops called Stinky Stuff are perfect. Plus, get Piriton tablets—she sounds allergic to something. Half a Piriton works wonders.

Another beneficial product for owners like you is Zymox. Again, you can order from Amazon, and it is a favourite for people with breeds prone to ear problems, mainly breeds with ears that flop down and are carried close to their heads.

  • It is OK to get her spayed at two years old now that she is fully grown. Maybe she has a Phantom Pregnancy? This is a good video on slaying and neutering: Dr Becker: The Truth About Spaying and Neutering.
  • Borage starflower oil capsules, as are balance hormones, are a must in season. When giving these during season 1, capsule per day for four weeks, stop giving Dorwest Raspberry tea leaf for four weeks, then again for four weeks borage. It helps prevent pyometra and Phantom pregnancies. Omega Balance.
  • I’m not sure what breed you have, but I always like a dog to be fully grown and mature so that it has benefitted from all its hormones during growth before it’s spayed/neutered, so around 18-24 months or even older in more giant breeds.
  • I know one of my girls is miserable when she’s in season and keeps herself to herself. She doesn’t want cuddles or to be with the rest of the gang, so we make her up a nice spot and leave her alone. Thankfully, she only comes into the season every nine months. Hence, we managed it and made her comfy.

 Little cooked and blended pumpkin, for example.

They usually resolve within 3-5 days. However, if they have recurring diarrhoea, the diet and gastrointestinal system must be evaluated. We wrote an article on Gastritis in Dogs: Symptoms, Causes, Treatment, and Diet.

That is not true; some people even wash their dogs weekly for special needs (health or expo). The difference is the product you use. Of course, if he washes his dog with dishwashing liquid, it hurts, but if he uses a quality product, it certainly doesn’t hurt but rather. Once a month at least, it would be best to wash it because the smog and air have deteriorated over the years.
 
Read this article that may be useful:

Here are some of the most common health issues seen in dogs:

✅ Obesity – Being overweight or obese is one of the most prevalent health problems for dogs. Carrying extra weight can lead to issues like heart disease, diabetes, arthritis, and more. Keeping your dog at a healthy weight is essential.

Dental Disease – Periodontal disease is prevalent in dogs. Bacteria in plaque and tartar buildup can lead to infection and tooth loss if improperly treated and prevented through dental cleanings and tooth brushing.

Skin Problems—Dogs can suffer from various skin issues, such as allergies, infections, parasites, etc. Itching, hair loss, rashes, and sores are common symptoms. It is recommended that dogs see a vet to diagnose and treat skin conditions properly.

 Ear Infections – Dogs with floppy or hairy inner ears are prone to developing ear infections. Symptoms include head shaking, odour, discharge, swelling, and ear scratching. A vet should treat infections to avoid complications.

Arthritis—Joint inflammation, stiffness, and pain from arthritis are increasingly common in older dogs. Keeping your dog at a healthy weight and using joint supplements can help manage arthritis pain.

Gastrointestinal Issues – Vomiting, diarrhoea, constipation, and other stomach/intestinal issues are pervasive in dogs. Causes range from eating something inappropriate to infection to inflammatory bowel disease.

Urinary Tract Infections – Bacteria in the bladder or urinary tract cause UTI symptoms like frequent urination, accidents in the house, and bloody or foul-smelling urine. UTIs require medical treatment.

Regular vet check-ups and preventative care can help detect and manage many typical dog health issues. Being aware of your dog’s signs of illness is also essential.

Question: Doctor… I’ve noticed this redness for a few days… I feel like he was smaller and “got wider.”… what could it be? Should I be worried? Thank you so much for your availability and for all you do!

Answer:  It is a mycosis (obviously to be confirmed by a visit to her vet).
Beware; it could be infectious if she has low immune defences (or is an older adult or a child).

Honey-based ointment, two times a day for seven days, to help it heal faster.

If it does not bleed, a single disinfection will suffice, and then wait for it to heal. However, if it hurts or the dog licks itself, you should try to prevent it and protect the part, perhaps even with healing ointments.

It can also be an air blow. Wrap its eye up with chamomile tea, but take the dog to a vet to be on the safe side. You never know; perhaps a worm, Thelazia, has entered the eye.

Being in heat is a rather personal and subjective experience; each dog has his own. So, that confirms that it is normal.

I just wanted to let them know that I have been trying different treatments, as my Frenchie had them between most of her toes on three paws. I went to the vet, and they prescribed antibiotics as the first treatment. Still, they didn’t work, so my vet advised soaking in Epsom salts for a week before they went for more invasive treatment and blood tests.
 
I had read that they should not be cut out, so I treated her as follows: Epsom soaks twice daily (1 cup full in ankle-deep warm water in the bath). I then dried her feet and, with a cotton bud, applied DERMISOL Cream (available online without a prescription for animal treatment) in between every toe.
 
I also gave her one Vegan Algae Omega 3 soft gel capsule (which can be squeezed onto food if they won’t eat the whole thing) per day and two turkey tail mushroom capsules a day (again, these can be separated and mixed in food—it’s advised that this is safe for dogs). Less than two weeks later, nearly all the cysts had cleared up, and the remaining ones had shrunk considerably and almost disappeared.
 
We are still determining whether all of the supplements were necessary, but one or all of these treatments worked for what initially proved problematic.

I’m not 100% sure, but I think it can be long-term.

  1.  Even if it weren’t ideal long-term, I guess it’s a balance of dangerous seizures and possibly issues from long-term use of Omeprazole.
  2. Omeprazole is pretty safe to be given long-term; I believe a study showed no adverse effects in dogs on the drug for several years (I can’t remember how long; it might have been 5 or 6 years). As mentioned above, though, sometimes it’s a balancing act – if the meds are helping, the benefits must be weighed against any possible side effects.
  3. I have two Frenchies with epilepsy; one is stable, and the other is quite frequent with seizures. They’re both on levetiracetam, which is a human drug and can be purchased from your local pharmacy. The one with more seizures is also on epiphen. But after months of trying to find the cause, I figured it was the cleaning products I used. I hope this helps your fur baby. Nothing is worse than when they have seizures; it is so scary.

The regurgitation or vomiting can undoubtedly be due to prolonged fasting (if he eats his second meal in the afternoon) and poor digestion.

The fact that it is also associated with diarrhoea may indeed be linked to a food intolerance, which more often than not manifests itself with gastrointestinal symptoms rather than skin symptoms, as most people think. A nutritionist could evaluate a hypoallergenic diet, perhaps even a fresh one, for a period to see if it improves.

With the symptoms he describes, it is crucial to investigate the dietary aspect. They do not have to be present daily, but the frequency you have indicated is already a sign of gastrointestinal discomfort.

It depends. In principle, he should be able to go out every three to four hours, but some dogs have far greater endurance and can last up to six to seven hours. The risk is bladder problems and stress; an animal that would like to be able to go out cannot.

This article might be helpful to you: Life With A Senior Dog

Pesticides should be given all year round, especially since the temperatures are no longer cold enough to keep the parasites away. If you have doubts about whether it affects your dog’s organism, the best thing to do is to have regular check-ups once a year, like people taking medication.

It would be best to look for a facility with specific equipment (B.A.E.R).

Yes. Depending on the product used, you can treat your puppy from around four to eight weeks. Puppies are easy to pick up fleas—usually from the environment or other pets- and preventing flea infestations is more effortless than tackling them. Treat your puppy regularly with an appropriate product—ask your vet. Remember to treat your home, too, as not all pet flea treatments also treat the environment. Wash pet bedding regularly at 30°C. Vacuum your soft furnishings and carpets regularly and wash removable cushion covers.

Different types of tapeworms exist, but generally, a puppy will become infected when they ingest an infected host, such as a flea or rodent. As fleas transmit one type of tapeworm, it should be assumed that a puppy infected with fleas also has tapeworm and vice versa. The worms live by absorbing pre-digested food in the bowels of the puppy. They are rarely harmful except where heavy infestations obstruct the gut or cause weight loss. Puppies are more likely to suffer from tapeworm symptoms than adult dogs. Routine worming is recommended, especially if your puppy goes outdoors and hunts. If you suspect that your puppy has worms, speak to your vet.

If your dog will let you handle his mouth, prod the tooth; if it moves, it is probably the source of his discomfort while playing. Unfortunately, your vet must provide an anaesthetic to remove it unless it is incredibly loose. Contact your vet if it doesn’t fall out independently in a few weeks.

Short-coated breeds such as Staffies can be prone to interdigital cysts (pododermatitis or interdigital furuncles). Ruptured hair follicles cause them to and may be more common in overweight dogs, dogs with splayed paws from arthritis, allergic skin disease, or those subjected to environmental factors such as rough ground. You should seek advice from your vet. Depending on the rest of the examination, your vet may want to take samples to rule out infections, prescribe anti-allergy medication, or suggest symptomatic treatment.

Thought to have a genetic link, OCD results from cartilage cracking or splitting away from the bone – commonly in the shoulder joint – as dogs grow, causing pain, lameness, and eventually arthritis. Labradors and giant breeds seem prone to this, but Border Collies can also be affected, and dogs may require surgery to remedy the problem.

INFO

Suppose you are struggling a lot with your mental health. You cannot take care of yourself, your children, your pets, or anything else for any reason; well, there are many realities you can turn to.

If the period is temporary, begin with:
1. Relatives and friends or co-workers.
2. Ask your vet.
3. Pension at home has a high price tag that is often not an option for most people’s financial situation. However, it might be worth contacting someone to see if they can offer you a long-term “special price” if that can make it a better option.

If, on the other hand, the separation is final, try these charities:

Finally, look for other charities in your area; they might be able to help you. In Google or another browser, type “breed rescue + ‘city’” followed by the city where you live. I hope this helps.
If you know of other realities in your area, please write them in the comments below.

It can be hazardous not to do oral prevention; one risks severe kidney, heart and gastrointestinal diseases. Furthermore, when tartar can no longer be removed by regular cleaning by the owner, a total cleaning by a veterinary surgeon with full dog sedation is necessary!

We wrote two articles about:

  1. Dog Oral Hygiene
  2. Fresh Breath, Happy Dog

Yes, it’s normal; it’s their way of communicating. For them, it’s like reading a “newspaper,” one must let it be read and not take it away. I pee and tell you that I’ve been here, that I’m (or not) in heat, that I’m (or not) angry, that I’m the owner of the area, etc. Letting the dogs out to get dirty is like going to the bar to chat…That’s why, in the family, we don’t like to be slapped in the face by our Frenchie dogs…

There are a few dilemmas to this, and I say yes. Still, with reservations, i.e., as long as it is not a rule if it only serves to give more flavour, OK. Dry food has been formulated as a complete food, so supplementing it with wet food cannot be done haphazardly.
Everything must be calculated and calibrated to avoid almost certain overweight in the long run. For doses, you should consult a vet nutritionist. As further advice, I also told her to hydrate the croquettes, wet them, and make them into a gruel (she will see how much they swell) to make them more digestible. There is no dogma in science; usually, at least, everything is debatable and elastic.

Here are some tips for cleaning dogs’ ears naturally:

✅ Use a gentle cleaner like coconut oil or aloe vera gel. Put a small amount on a cotton ball and gently wipe it inside the ear canal. This can help loosen dirt and debris.

✅ Make a cleaning solution of equal parts vinegar and water. Dip a cotton ball in the solution and wipe it inside the ear. The vinegar helps kill bacteria and dry out the ear.

✅ For damp or waxy buildup, use a baking soda-based powder to clean pets’ ears. Gently apply as directed, then wipe out with a cotton ball. The baking soda helps dissolve gunk.

✅ After cleaning, apply a small amount of coconut or olive oil. This prevents over-drying and further buildup.

✅ Always use cotton balls instead of Q-tips, which can damage the sensitive inner ear. Clean only visible parts of the ear; don’t dig deep into the canal.

✅ Be very gentle! Stop if your dog shows signs of pain or discomfort. And never use peroxide or alcohol, which can irritate the ears.

The key is to be very mild and consistent. Seek advice from your vet if your ears seem red, inflamed, or have a foul odour. Routine, gentle cleaning can keep your dog’s ears fresh and prevent painful infections.

Not all dogs are lactose intolerant, but I’d avoid these products if your dog is intolerant. Kefir typically has less lactose than yoghurt as it is significantly reduced in fermentation, but it won’t be completely lactose-free.

It might come in useful: 
➡ Feeding Dogs; Dr. Conor Brady: https://amzn.to/460ciyg

No, dogs do not have square teeth. Here are some key facts about dog teeth:

  • Dogs have 42 teeth in total, including incisors, canines, premolars, and molars in both the upper and lower jaws.
  • The incisors at the front of the mouth are small and sharp for biting and tearing food. They have a chisel-like shape.
  • The canines are the long and pointed teeth dogs use for gripping and tearing. They have a single-pointed cusp.
  • The premolars and molars back in the mouth are used for chewing and grinding food. Their rounded, bumpy surfaces help break down food.
  • A dog’s teeth are similar in shape to human teeth but proportionately larger. Their teeth are not square or rectangular.
In summary, dogs have a variety of tooth shapes, including incisors, canines, premolars, and molars. But none of their teeth are square. Their teeth are well-adapted for biting, tearing, and chewing food.

Dogs have 42 teeth in their mouths. Here’s a breakdown of a dog’s teeth:

  • Incisors (front teeth) – 6 on top and 6 on bottom
  • Canines (fangs) – 2 on top and 2 on bottom
  • Premolars (behind canines) – 8 on top and 8 on bottom
  • Molars (rear teeth) – 4 on top and 6 on bottom
So, an adult dog has 42 teeth – 20 on the top jaw and 22 on the bottom. The number and types of teeth help dogs bite, chew and tear food. Puppies have 28 teeth that eventually get replaced by 42 permanent adult teeth by the age of 7 months. The number of teeth varies slightly by breed.

Biting is normal play behaviour for a puppy and helps them learn important lessons about controlling their bite strength. Puppies’ baby teeth can be extremely sharp, so excessive biting should be discouraged. It can become a problem if they haven’t grown out of it by the time they get bigger and develop their adult teeth. Dealing with this behaviour ensures they get a consistent message: “If I bite humans, the game is over, and there is no more fun.” Stop playing when your puppy bites you and ignore them briefly. This can be hard if children are involved, but persevere. Use chew toys to distract pups from biting, and if it persists, consider attending puppy-training classes.

If you’ve been working from home, your puppy will be used to having you available for attention and cuddles all day, so now is the time to let them know it will not always be like that. Begin, gradually, to make yourself unavailable to them for a while – perhaps taking yourself to a room they don’t have access to or going out for a long walk now and again. This will give them an idea of what life will look like and build their confidence in being alone. Without their humans on hand for entertainment, your puppy will need enough stimulation to keep them occupied while you’re not around. Give them toys to keep them busy and in good condition, and spare your furniture. Ensure that these are ones they can safely play with unsupervised and avoid anything that could choke or strangle them – so nothing minimal and nothing with strings.

Male dogs, particularly those not neutered, will pee on prominent upright objects for marking purposes. If it is a quick leg cock rather than a complete emptying of the bladder, then this will be hard to train him out of. The only option is to stop him from getting to the plant with a fence or cover. As urine marking is a predominantly male behaviour, castration would help to reduce the problem. If, instead, it’s a ‘normal’ wee, then you may be successful in retraining him. In the short term, you’ll need to prevent him from accessing the plants and encourage and reward him for peeing in an alternative place.

If your garden is safe, enclosed with solid fences and not used by unvaccinated dogs, then your puppy can explore the garden immediately. It’ll help to build their confidence, get them used to their new home, and you can start their toilet training. Taking your puppy for their first walk is a huge milestone, but you’ll need to wait until their vaccinations fully cover them to be safe. This is usually a week or so after their second jab in their primary vaccination course, but this varies depending on your puppy’s vaccine. Usually, the first jab is given at around eight weeks, then 10-12 weeks for the second vaccine. There may also be some places with a higher risk, such as those near rivers and farms, which you’ll need to avoid for longer – often for around a month after your puppy’s final vaccine. Your vet can advise you on the exact timings.

For cats, the natural cycle begins as early as four months of age. Young female dogs usually undergo their first heat cycle around six months, although this will depend on their breed and adult size. Some dogs won’t have their first season until 12-18 months of age. Talk with your vet if your puppy hasn’t had her first season by the time you visit your vet practice for your first-year vaccination boosters.

What we call ‘heat‘ in female dogs is the natural oestrus cycle of an unspayed pup. When your puppy is in season, she can conceive a pregnancy and give off cues and scents to attract entire (un-neutered) male dogs.

Vulva swelling: You will notice that your pup’s vulva has increased and become quite prominent. The amount of swelling can vary from dog to dog.

Red, bloody discharge from the vulva: The amount of discharge you see will vary from dog to dog—some show barely any, while others can be more noticeable. Contact your vet if the discharge seems excessive or has a strong odour.

High activity levels: Some dogs get restless or tired during this heat period.

  1. Changes in behaviour: Your pup may behave differently towards other dogs, especially males who try to mate with her but whom she doesn’t want to mate with. However, she may display increased mounting behaviour, even trying to mount your leg, cushions and other objects around the house.
  2. Change in appetite: Your dog may seem hungrier than normal when in heat. Equally, dogs who act more lethargic may seem uninterested in their food and lack appetite.
  3. Increase in unwanted attention: Male dogs will go to great lengths to reach an unspayed female in heat, so keep a close eye on your pup and don’t leave her unattended.
  4. Frequent urination: You may notice your pooch pees more when she’s in heat. Be aware, though, that increased urination could also be a sign of a urinary infection. If you’re not sure, speak with your vet immediately.
  5. Tail tucking: Your pup may hide her tail between her legs in the early stages of heat. No, she’s not scared – she’s just protecting her vulva.

All dogs are different and behave differently when they’re in heat. Some pups may demand more attention and become overly clingy, while others may stop following your instructions as usual. As a responsible pet owner, you must learn what is normal for your pup and help her accordingly. Female dogs in heat may try desperately to reach male dogs – something they might actively avoid at other times of the year. That’s why you should always keep a close eye on your pup when she’s in season and never let her out of your sight. The urge to mate might make her run away and get lost, especially if you’re in an unfamiliar place. 

Kittens will display a range of behaviours when they come into season (see below). Some can make it seem like your animal is in distress or pain. While seeing how your kitten acts when she’s in heat can be shocking, they often display normal signs. Some kittens can go off their food; others will have a marked increase in appetite. All of this is normal, but if you have any concerns, give your local vet practice a call to have a chat.

Female cats go into heat every two to three weeks during the mating season, which can last from spring to autumn – although with climate changes, many kittens are now coming into season at any point of the year. Every heat cycle lasts an average of six days. Because of this rapid reproductive cycle, one unspayed cat may have as many as three to five litters a year.

It can vary with dogs, but generally, female dogs come into season once or twice a year. Every six to eight months or so is about the average, although there are significant levels of variation between individual dogs and their breeds.

Female dogs generally come in and remain in heat for around three weeks at a time, although again, this is very variable and anything between two weeks and four weeks is considered normal. If your pet remains in season for more than four weeks at a time, consult your vet for advice, as there may be an underlying problem that needs to be addressed. Similarly, visiting your vet would be good if you suspect your dog is coming into season more regularly than average.

You can use specific dog-season nappies if you like. Both washable and disposable varieties are available. Make sure to change these regularly to keep your pooch in tip-top clean condition.

No—while some behaviours can make it seem like your pet is in pain, this is rarely the case. Cats, in particular, can make deafening yowling noises. The best thing to do is act as normally as possible around your pets.

If you don’t intend to breed from your pup, you should discuss the options with your vet or vet nurse. Spaying your pet will not only protect her from unwanted pregnancies, but it can also help to reduce the risk of certain diseases, such as cancer. If you decide to spay your dog, the exact timing will depend on her breed and predicted adult weight. It’s best to discuss this in-depth with your vet.

Kittens can be spayed from 16 weeks onwards and ideally should not go outside unsupervised until they’ve had the procedure to prevent an unwanted pregnancy. As with dogs, chat with your vet or vet nurse about the options available.

For dogs who have attended training classes for a while, there are several other activities they can migrate to. Each can benefit by providing exercise, stimulation, and a further challenge.

Agility is a fun, competitive pastime in which the dog is directed to go over, under, and through various obstacles. Senior dogs should be assessed first.

Hoopers are a relatively new and exciting activity similar to agility but less intense. There are no jumping or tight turns, and hoopers can suit dogs of all ages because they are low-impact (no jumping/twisting).

Scent/nose work can be done with dogs of any age, level of obedience, or confidence. Articles are hidden in a specific area, indoors or outside. The dog has to cover the area and locate the item using his incredible nose. I believe Labradors are one of the best breeds in this pursuit!

Research into the positive and negative effects of neutering dogs is ongoing, and advice changes occasionally. Neutering male dogs can reduce their risk of some health problems, including -testicular tumours, perianal adenomas, perineal hernias, and prostate hyperplasia. It also reduces male behaviours such as urine marking, searching for bitches, and aggression towards other male dogs.

However, neutered dogs are more likely to gain weight, larger breeds may be more prone to joint problems if neutered, and nervous dogs can become more anxious. If you train your dog well and he has no health or behavioural issues, you may keep him entire. If you decide to neuter, I’d wait until he is over a year old, fully grown, and mentally grown.

Puppy farms sell a high volume of puppies, placing the importance of profit over the welfare of the pups and their mothers. They are very good at disguising what they do. Here is a list of things to beware of:

  • The establishment lets you take a puppy home when you meet him, with little or no questions asked.
  • Responsible breeders will always allow you to return the puppy if it doesn’t work out; puppy farms are unlikely to.
  • They offer a delivery service.
  • They have a selection of different breeds to choose from.
  • Puppy farms can’t provide or offer false health test certificates for the parents.
  • The dog’s mother isn’t anywhere to be seen, although some will use dogs who look like mothers to pose with the pups.
  • The person you are dealing with has a limited or superficial knowledge of the breed.
  • The buying process is more like buying a pair of shoes. If you don’t like one breed, they will encourage you to look at others.
  • The puppies haven’t been raised in a home environment—they can be seen in a cage or crate but are often in clean, sawdust-covered pens.

Firstly, ensure your dog is fed enough food two or three times a day. It’s also worth ruling out parasites, such as intestinal worms, which may increase his hunger. It is easy to teach a dog to bark at you inadvertently: the dog barks… food appears. It is tough to refrain from giving food when a demanding dog is barking loudly, but barking only takes a few repetitions to become a rewarding and learned behaviour.

Ignoring him is OK, but teaching him what you want him to do is far better. Barking. Try to only provide him with titbits after d. he has done something you wanted him to do, such as a ‘sit. Taking training further, teach a ‘go to your bed! Eventually, instead of barking, he will go to his bed, and you can reward him with food when you decide.

While you are cooking, provide him with a tasty, stuffed Kong that he can enjoy in his own private space away from you. Alternatively, give him his meal just before you start preparing yours. Give him something to do instead of barking.

  • Lower concentration levels or brain fog may make your dog seem less responsive than normal to your commands.
  • ‘Teenage’ dogs may appear more uncoordinated or clumsy.
  • Greater interest in other dogs and their scents.
  • More competitive behaviour between dogs of the same sex, including aggression.
  • Increase in more territorial behaviour.
  • Development of newer sensory or social phobias.
  • Lowering tolerance of new people, dogs, or experiences.
  • Higher energy levels – unless the dog is suffering from any painful

PRODUCTS

Excellent coconut oil! But also consider why and in what context they become dry.

Procanicare is excellent for this purpose and also for intolerant and allergic dogs.

Did you know that one in five dogs suffers from osteoarthritis? Regardless of your dog’s size, age, or activity level, taking care of his joints is essential, as they affect his health and quality of life.

Virbac has developed a new generation of nutritional supplements to preserve joint health and mobility: MOVOFLEX Soft Chew.

MOVOFLEX Soft Chews contain an exclusive, complete formula of five high-quality ingredients. Egg membrane is an innovative ingredient derived from hen’s eggs. It is rich in many elements naturally available in joints to support their flexibility and elasticity, and it has a proven effect on mobility.

Boswellia serrata extract is an ingredient that is already known and long used in Ayurvedic medicine to maintain healthy joints and improve mobility. Its properties are also recognised in Kril flour, which is rich in fatty acids and omega-3.

Hyaluronic acid, naturally present in joint cartilage and synovial fluid, has been selected for its role in the overall health of joint structure, mainly cartilage.

This unique combination of synergistic ingredients allows MOVOFLEX Soft Chews to act quickly, improving the dog’s mobility as early as day 7.

MOVOFLEX Soft Chews are very palatable for your dog, safe (97% of ingredients are of natural origin) and easy to administer: only one chew per day, without loading dose, for dogs of all sizes, ages and activity levels.

✅ MOVOFLEX Soft Chew can be purchased from Amazon.co.uk

Salmoil is a tasty, Omega-3-rich food that stands out from other salmon oils for dogs and cats. In all recipes of the line, developed by Necon Pet Food with the support of veterinarians specialised in animal nutrition, combining functional ingredients with those rich in Omega-3 fatty acids enhances the specific nutritional function.

Numerous scientific studies have demonstrated the beneficial effects of ‘essential fatty acids’ in dogs and cats and how essential they are in the diet, as a deficiency can lead to dysfunctions in the body.

Only Salmoil guarantees higher Omega-3 values than any other dry or wet pet food. Thanks to this high percentage of fatty acids, salmoil contributes to the daily well-being of dogs and cats. In this sense, Salmoil represents the evolution of salmon oil, offering pets more benefits than any other salmon oil product.

If the content is top, the container must be too! The unique, original, environmentally friendly, eco-friendly aluminium hermetic packaging is only Salmoil. Aluminium is durable, shields from light, and is not permeable to air, so it protects precious contents from oxidation for a long time. The Salmoil bottle, equipped with an elegant and sturdy cap, is entirely hermetically sealed to preserve the food better and preserve its essential properties. Salmoil is easy to transport and simple to use. A spoonful is poured into the bowl for a health boost for our pet.

✅ The 6 Salmoil recipes can be found in the best pet shops and online at amazon.co.uk

For anyone looking for inexpensive dog anti-slip pads, these are perfect. They are ideal for dogs that often slip on wooden or marble floors. Your dog doesn’t know how long they will last, but they are not expensive, and he won’t even notice they are on. They are also adorable.

✔ Dog Paw Protector Anti-Slip

It’s always best not to use chemicals around our dogs, as most cleaning products are highly toxic.

Here are some possible solutions:
⊛ Bicarbonate soda. Sprinkle bicarbonate soda over the area, leave it, then hoover it up. It will absorb the smell.

⊛ White vinegar works great! Also, you can use it for most cleaning
⊛ SKOUT’S HONOR Odour Eliminator is incredible!
⊛ PowAir Is fabulous and pet-friendly.

There are some supplements which can help take the edge off it, but these are to be used alongside positive conditioning for travelling:

✅ Dorwest Valerian Compound
✅ Dorwest Scullcap & Valerian
✅ AO K9 Calm K9
✅ YuCalm
✅ NutraCalm
✅ Chamomile tea
✅ CBD Oil
✅ Bach Flowers
✅ Vince The Vet Anxiety
✅ HomeoPet Anxiety Relief
✅ Pet Remedy sprayed on the bandana
✅ Travel tincture

Honey-based ointment, two times a day for seven days, to help it heal faster.

If it does not bleed, a single disinfection will suffice, and then wait for it to heal. However, if it hurts or the dog licks itself, you should try to prevent it and protect the part, perhaps even with healing ointments.

Solutions:

  • Have you tried raw? The dog goes bonkers for it.
  • Stop giving it to him; he may miss a meal or two but will eat if hungry. I had a similar issue, and they wouldn’t eat without chicken. So now I give them pilchards/mackerel in tomato sauce now and again. It’s much cheaper and good for them. I know tomatoes are not suitable for them, but the sauce in the mackerel is good for them; the vet told me that because it’s not raw.
  • Mine is the same. She has had pets like Live Fresh, Butternutbox, Hilife, Cesar, and all the brands you can think of. She only eats chicken. So, I give her Iceland-cooked chicken chunks in the morning, and she has encored chicken in the tins at night. I’ve been having this for two years, so hopefully, I’ve cracked it.
  • If they turn their nose up at several dry foods, I generally find it’s time “to listen to your dog.” I don’t believe kibbles are food, and dogs are intelligent animals, and I think they eventually realise this. So, a switch to fresh foods would be my suggestion.
  • One of mine can be fussy, so I tried him with these HILIFE it’s only natural – Wet Dog Food – The Luxury Jelly Collection – Chicken Breast, Beef, Carrots, Peas – 100% Natural Grain Free, 15 Pouches x 100g. Also, Wainwright’s in pets at home do toppers, which are chicken-based but cheaper than buying & cooking fresh chicken… Sometimes, I grate cheese over it as well. I also vary their food now. Lily’s Kitchen & Forthglade are the favourites for wet, and I just swapped the Wainwrights veggie option in dry, but as they get older, they are becoming more of a struggle with food( 8& 7 now)… So, failing that, I cook Richmond sausages; they let me have a couple, and I add small amounts to their food … I also dampen the dried food to get a bit of a ‘gravy’.
  • I recommend the butternut box. They often have deals, too.
  • Another vote for the butternut box is recommended! 

I see many posts on Frenchies or other dogs chewing their paws from habit or skin issues, and I would recommend this! I applied it after cleaning Frank’s paws, and it stopped him from chewing them, redrawing to the point he would cry as he chewed them. It was about £6. You can find it online on Amazon UK or at Pets at Home, and it comes in wipesrolls, or cotton buds.

✅ Zymox Spray without Hydrocortisone 

✅ If he has recurrent ear infections, there is an underlying issue. You need to consult a vet.

✅ Nothing is better than ‘Thornit powder’ if wet and gunky. It saved my dog’s ear canals from being removed when vets had tried everything. Now, our vet even advises it.

Yes, washable dog pee pads work well. They contain the mess, prevent tracking, neutralise odours and help keep your pet happy and clean.

Without them, containing the mess becomes a hygiene problem. You must avoid pet-harmful cleaning products while constantly cleaning your carpet to remove pet stains.

Those for one-handed use are fine.

Suppose you have a Maltese, Scottish Shepherd, Poodle, Cavalier King, Cocker, Yorkshire, Shi-Tzu, Foxhound, Chihuahua, or a long-haired dog. In that case, you know how complicated it is to avoid knots, especially after bathing.

Use a shampoo with an emollient and protective action that respects the dog’s skin's natural pH. We always use this hair shampoo from Animology.

It would be helpful to determine whether the dog stops or remains aggressive.
In general, however, in situations like this, the dog on the leash is not handled well.

You probably stiffen up by pulling on the leash, and the dog feels it and reacts. I recommend getting an exemplary educator to help you quickly or take an online course.

Teaching the dog to stay inside the kennel in our absence is better. The dog should never be left alone with a chew toy because it might swallow it in a rage.
The best thing would be to put him in “rest mode” and then have the dog finally relax because he is on his own. Alternatively, it could adequately fill the Kong with the correct size, e.g., one-day pate, kibble, one-day cheese, or a suitable object.

Considering that the immune system starts mainly from the intestine, I recommend probiotics and zinc-based supplements, but still talk to your veterinarian.

There are ‘soft’ collars that are better tolerated and indestructible. You must tie it to the harness and collar to ensure it cannot come off!

A body harness is a valid equipment for any dog likely to pull or lunge when out walking. Research has shown us that a dog of any size can damage the windpipe (trachea), throat (oesophagus), neck, or spine when the lead is connected to just the collar. A harness instantly takes the pressure off the neck and throat area.

This makes daily walking less stressful on the dog’s body; therefore, a harness can help an anxious or excited dog to have a calm and beneficial walk. However, fitting a harness is not an excuse to neglect training. I still recommend teaching a dog to walk nicely on a slack lead.

Check before you buy; like a collar, never purchase a harness that tightens up if the dog pulls. This is a poor way of training a dog and can make the walk extremely uncomfortable. An example would be if the dog is startled and moves away from another dog. He is then made uncomfortable as he hits the end of the lead because the harness has a squeezing effect. The other dog is then associated with this unpleasant feeling.

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